Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,029 total · 51/month
Shared By: Chris C on Apr 19, 2021
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description Suggest change

The prominent ridge, splitting the Sandy and Ladd glaciers. The climbing is never too technically challenging, but there is a lot of it. Route finding and remoteness makes the climb unique. Don't expect the guide book, a GPS trace, or beta to help you much- be prepared to do most the route finding on your own.  

7800': Low camp option
(climb to the left of the ridge)
8050': Alternative camp site
(climb to the left of the ridge)
8600': Drop into gully to the right, getting onto the Sandy. It will look like you are going off a cliff, but it's only a few foot down climb. There are plenty of good drop in points between 8150' and 8600', so don't get too hung up on finding the "correct one".
8900': Seasonal camp site
(traverse right around large rock formations, you may feel lost here)
9350': Gain the ridge again. The ridge is not continuous, so you will need to use your best route finding judgement here. You may need to drop into some gullies and climb out. Beware of falling ice off the ridge above.
9700': "Crux" rock formation. Traverse left around it, this may appear unintuitive from below. Whether or not this is actually the most challenging part of the climb is highly debatable.
(climb the gully straight up above, good rocks to weave protection)
10150': Intersect another rock formation on the gully. Go left onto the Coe or right around the formation.
(the Queen's Chair should enter site very distinctly, climb towards that)
10800': Finish off on the Queen's Chair

Protection Suggest change

Slings for horns, a couple pickets, a couple shorter screws