Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Gym Reaper

5.12c, Sport, 165 ft (50 m),  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Evan Wisheropp, 3/21
California > Northwest Calif… > Cecilville Bluffs > 2. Warm-Up Wall

Description

This magnificent pitch redefines classic. The climb is recognized by a seemingly impossible 12’ long 65 degree roof on the left side of the Warm Up Wall. From the ground looks nearly featureless, but is thankfully featured with incredible finger slots. 

Pull through the amazing roof to a bit of a head scratcher at the lip. At the lip of the roof, clipp off a wickedly flared, yet somehow solid fist jam and cut your feet for a glorious jug roof pull. After the roof, weave around marvelous 5.10 and 5.11- to an airy finish. Clip bolts 1-3 with slings. The crux bolts have fixed draws to make projecting easy and low stress. Shorter folks will want a 3' stick clip to hang a sling off the third bolt (an easy task from a comfortable stance).

Getting down: Climb the route with a 70m rope. About halfway down (when you're almost out of rope), swing right to a new anchor located off route. Pull the rope from there and make a second lower (not rappel). 

Location

Left route of Warm Up Wall.

Protection

20 bolts. 2 are fixed draws. 24" slings x3, and 48" natural thread.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The roof
[Hide Photo] The roof
Gym Reaper
[Hide Photo] Gym Reaper
Beautiful gold stone up near the top
[Hide Photo] Beautiful gold stone up near the top
Natural thread up near the top.
[Hide Photo] Natural thread up near the top.
Gym Reaper roof from Claim Jumper. The last two draws seen are now fixed draws.
[Hide Photo] Gym Reaper roof from Claim Jumper. The last two draws seen are now fixed draws.
Looking up at the roof before bolting/cleaning was complete. There are three bolts in the roof, the second two with fixed draws. Get on it!
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the roof before bolting/cleaning was complete. There are three bolts in the roof, the second two with fixed draws. Get on it!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Evan Wisheropp
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] My grade of 12c is a total guess. I really don't know. I expected it would take me a while to get the send, but got it on the first lead go on a warm-up. 12a? 13a? No clue, it feels hard to grade... All I know, is it's wonderful. Apr 17, 2021