This magnificent pitch redefines classic. The climb is recognized by a seemingly impossible 12’ long 65 degree roof on the left side of the Warm Up Wall. From the ground looks nearly featureless, but is thankfully featured with incredible finger slots.
Pull through the amazing roof to a bit of a head scratcher at the lip. At the lip of the roof, clipp off a wickedly flared, yet somehow solid fist jam and cut your feet for a glorious jug roof pull. After the roof, weave around marvelous 5.10 and 5.11- to an airy finish. Clip bolts 1-3 with slings. The crux bolts have fixed draws to make projecting easy and low stress. Shorter folks will want a 3' stick clip to hang a sling off the third bolt (an easy task from a comfortable stance).
Getting down: Climb the route with a 70m rope. About halfway down (when you're almost out of rope), swing right to a new anchor located off route. Pull the rope from there and make a second lower (not rappel).
Left route of Warm Up Wall.
Evan Wisheropp
5.12c
|
[Hide Comment] My grade of 12c is a total guess. I really don't know. I expected it would take me a while to get the send, but got it on the first lead go on a warm-up. 12a? 13a? No clue, it feels hard to grade... All I know, is it's wonderful.
Apr 17, 2021
|