Hierarchy
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 135 ft (41 m) |
FA: | F. Cote, C. Mazurkiewicz |
Page Views: | 311 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Francois Cote on Apr 16, 2021 |
Admins: | Dom Caron, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes |
Description
This fantastic linkup follows the prominent arch by climbing above it. It only offers a small amount of independent climbing between existing routes but those links are engaging, and the line is very logical as it generally follows the lip of the arch. The result is a long, stout pitch on some of the best rock Cochrane Lane has to offer.
Start up Catholic Girls and climb it to the vertical cracks after its technical crux. Aim up and left into an undercling and a crack, then make another move left onto Solstice. Follow Solstice until just below its last bolt and move left into the diagonal finger crack right above the lip of the arch (shared with Millennial Ego). When this crack ends, make an exposed step over to some easier cracks (Gumby Roof). Follow easy horizontals to a final step where the arch ends then climb up to rap rings (last few meters of Telefunken).
It is possible to clip the 2 bolts on Solstice but they are not in ideal positions for this route and would need to be extended. It is ideal to climb the route entirely on gear with minimal to no extension necessary.
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