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Routes in The Crucible
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Blood Pact T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Centipede Daycare V2 5+ |
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Gimme Your Lunch Money ($273) T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Headhunter 3 Cops 0 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Juicy Foot AKA Finger Choppa V6 7A |
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Left On Red T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Mamas Toe Jam V2+ 5+ |
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Officer 270s Hairy Bush (shave that shit) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Papas Fungi V-easy 3 |
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Protein Snakes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Something Spooky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thisisfine.jpg T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Woodpeckers Lips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Wrecking The Lambo V2 5+ |
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XENIA T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Youth Is Wasted On The Young T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | TR FA Oct 14, 2020 Alex Mitchell , FFA April 13 2021 John Lozano |
| Page Views: | 490 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Miles Johnson on Apr 15, 2021 |
| Admins: | Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz |
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Description
The first time Miles showed Blood Pact to Alex and John they hiked up to The Crucible topout dome after climbing Splitter Splatter Let’s Stem At Er 5.8 to the south at Bobcat’s Atrium. Miles stayed on top to rig up TR and told the guys how to scramble down past “the chair” which faces Blood Pact and corkscrew down to the south face’s base.
After they got down Miles yelled “how’s it look?!” unsure if they’d be as similarly inspired by the strange split dual crack that required a stretch across a blank traverse to link the two together. After some silence and a little sadness they weren’t as stoked as he was when he first saw the line, John’s voice rang out from beneath the dark trees and vines below, “IT’S SICK!!! IT’S BEAUTIFUL!”.
Sunset was closing in but the trio got a taste of the slightly overhung and barndoory mix of layback and crack beta that crack #1 requires. With scuffed up hands and a dump truck full of stoke they packed up quickly and hauled ass to the car making it out before gettin into trouble.
This was the first real project that immediately demanded more than they had to offer - it was a great feeling.
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- Start below the left flared and variable crack managing the barn door moves and work your way up until you’re ready to dance or float across the traverse into crack 2.
- Ignore the excited hope that the jug you’re looking upward at is actually a jug and make good clean moves to send Blood Pact.
Location
Park at Pirates Landing (first parking from the top of Mt Scott) and walk downhill 30-50’, turn left to the east and scramble down the talus to a grassy slope. Head east to where the boulders run in a downhill edge and follow SSE. After a few ledges downhill look east toward the south bankline of Lake Lawtonka and a bald large dome with large huecos facing skyward and a couple cedar trees will mark the topout of The Crucible which has climbing faces pointing south and east. To see the climbing faces you’ll have to pass the crag heading east.
Once you’ve found the dome with huecos on top the easiest scramble is south for 10-15 yards and then turn left and corkscrew down into The Crucible’s south face.
Coordinates: (34.7424145, -98.5297211)
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