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Ducks in Bondage
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 5
votes
Routes in Ducks in Bondage Slab
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Debbie Does Daffy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Ducks in Bondage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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S&M Airlines T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ugly Bondage link up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ugly Duckling T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
| GPS: | 40.57585, -111.74802 |
| FA: | Bill Robbins Skeeter Malinski, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 594 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | tenesmus on Apr 11, 2021 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: On private land.
Details
The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage perpetualstorage.com/index_….
Be respectful of private property.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The highlight of the crag! Slab climbing is way more fun when you have an obvious point of security to shoot for. Like Dark of the Moon, there is constant motivation to connect the dots between all those chickenheads, with the extra bonus of a few flakes and edges.
Pad up the initial 30' of very low angle 5.0 slab, shooting for the initial crack in the middle/left of the face. Place a piece, then mantle and slidepull your way up the heavily featured face. Slab geeks may find themselves smiling and grinning their way past the many chickenheads, flakes, edges interspersed with large, dishy smears here and there.
There is an anchor station mid-way and after there, it's progressively easier yet progressively runout climbing to a 2 bolt anchor. I think there may be one or two pins on the second half but the reduction in grade helped the run out feel reasonable.
Keep moving and don't think about it!
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