All Locations > Utah > W Desert > Confusion Range > Ibex > S Corridor > New Year's Rock

Unknown South face route

Name: Unknown South face route
Rating: 2.8

5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in New Year's Rock

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	Auid Lang Syne S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Unknown South face route S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

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Type:	Sport, 45 ft (14 m)
GPS:	38.99848, -113.38091
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	484 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Caleb Wood on Apr 4, 2021
Admins:	Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

First Bolt is low, starts on a jug about 6 feet high, send for a left hand jug and from there on up enjoy the slopers and the less than favorable edges to the top!

(a chimney can be climbed on the east face after a short traverse if it beats you too badly and just want to top rope it. However you will runout 2 bolts, it is decent 5.10 climbing)

Ample ledges provide great seating for your friends to watch you struggle.

The crux is the upper head wall moving beyond the under-cling pocket in my opinion.

Location

Follow the trail from scorpion slab towards New Year's Rock, this route is in a small and cozy corner. Currently only south facing route on this rock. There's some chalk down low but none up high. the climb looks much easier than it is.