Type: | Ice, Snow, 600 ft (182 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 487 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Neil Abe on Mar 31, 2021 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
Description
Good 3-pitch route with knee to thigh deep snowfields inbetween each ice section. Longer day than Guinness Gully because of that. 1st pitch starts in a narrow gully which opens up. Tricky belay stance as it is a aggressively angled avalanche path underneath. Pack snow down and thread an ice screw to anchor for belay station. 2nd pitch is a gentle waterfall which leads to more snow before and after. Belay off tree on right after gully. The tree is in a slightly elevated area and has some purple rope as anchoring tat (in poor shape and is half buried in ice). Also use this tree to repel down. 3rd pitch is the money pitch, which has several nice landings on the way to a tree with tat to the left.
Location
This climb is not marked on the road like Carlsberg Column and Guinness Gully is. There is a large avalanche path in between Carlsberg and Guinness (about 100 m to the left of the Guinness Gully path). Walk through some trees from the road then it will open up to the avy field. You will be able to distinctly see several waterfalls (including the narrow start to Labatt's Lane) as you trudge upwards through the snow field.
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