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CaronaCation
5.6,
Sport, 120 ft (36 m),
Avg: 1.1 from 22
votes
FA:
R G,
Alex Moehling,
Nik Delgado, March 2020
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Grand County
> Salt Valley
> Sunbeam Wall
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Big, positive holds and solid feet the entire way make this one feel secure from bottom to top. The climbing is straightforward and confidence-inspiring, which makes it a great option for a newer leader looking to get their head around leading on real rock. You still get a bit of exposure up high to keep things exciting, but it never feels overwhelming—just enough to give you that “I’m really up here” feeling without spiking the nerves. Overall, it’s one of those climbs that’s hard not to enjoy, with fun movement the entire way and no real crux that shuts you down.
For the descent, consider walking off instead of rappelling. The rappel line tends to have a lot of rope drag and can be a bit of a hassle, especially with wind or other parties around. The walk-off is straightforward and usually the smoother, faster option.
Location
The first route ever bolted on Sunbeam wall, the far left "arch" (aka stacked boulders) that is just above a nice camping area that has cell service!
38.8640567 -109.7480718
Protection
Bailey, CO
EUREKA, CA
Colorado Springs, CO
Colorado Springs, CO