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Temple of Doom

5.11+, Sport, 140 ft (42 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 5 votes
FA: Nick Henscheid, Scott Pryor, Jonathan King, Jeff Gicklhorn
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Farmhouse > 5 - Whippersnapper Wall
Warning Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW ! DetailsDrop down

Description

Important Note: this route is 40+m long! You will need to lower or rappel twice, using the midpoint anchor  (anchor for "Temple of the Sun").  A 70m is *DEFINITELY* required to double lower.  An 80m may not get you to the ground.  With a 60m you will need to rappel! Please use caution and tie knots

Temple of Doom takes one of the proudest lines up the Whippersnapper wall, tackling nearly 40m of sustained, fantastic climbing all the way to the top of the cliff. While somewhat bouldery in nature with many full recovery rests to be found between difficulties, it is also very sustained in that there are at least 5 distinct crux sections, each unique and challenging, so you may find yourself struggling to pull the final 5.10 bulge at the end.

Start by climbing "Temple of the Sun", the 11b first pitch (listed as a separate route).  Clip a long runner to the chains, rest up, then proceed towards the first crux of the second pitch: a very cryptic sequence of slots, pockets, sidepulls and a bizarre loaf hold.  Tackle a few bolts of easier terrain then rest up again before the second (upper) crux, which launches into a steeper section of bullet grey rock.  Find your path through widely spaced pockets, sidepulls, a toe-hook or two and a perfect chert knob that hopefully sticks around.  Continue on for another 30-40 feet of joyous 5.10 to the chains.  

Because of its length and sustained difficulty, this route took a long time for me to suss out and send.  I went back and forth many times about the grade, thinking it could be as easy as 11a/b and as hard as mid 5.12 at times.   When it came down to it, it only took two lead tries from the ground to get the send on the full line, with 4 or 5 tries to get the first pitch ("Temple of the Sun"). I worked the upper cruxes on TR several times.  Ultimately I think 11+ is appropriate but consensus will tell!

I'm also giving it a heavily biased four stars knowing that it needs a little cleaning yet to be perfect, mostly around the 3rd & 4th bolts and at the very top.  99% of the rock is immaculate and the movement is spectacular.

Location

Extension to "Temple of the Sun".

Protection

4 fixed draws and approx. 20 additional draws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route topo (Photo: Matt Martinez).
[Hide Photo] Route topo (Photo: Matt Martinez).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kemper Brightman
The Old Pueblo, AZ
[Hide Comment] Nick this looks epic. the description reminds me of The Hitchiker in Maple Canyon, only this is longer and 10 hours closer... Mar 22, 2021
[Hide Comment] Nick. Looks sweet! Time to haul out my rarely used 80m Mar 22, 2021
Nick Henscheid
Seattle, WA
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] Yes!! Psyched for you both to get on these. You could knock out 200m pretty quickly on this wall. Mar 22, 2021
Nick Henscheid
Seattle, WA
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] Had the opportunity to watch someone get an epic onsight of this yesterday, as I was working on a new route to the left. I noticed that with no beta he somewhat bypassed the two upper cruxes by climbing some grungy uncleaned features to the right (first upper crux) and left (second upper crux).

Without giving away too much, note that the original line stays fairly close to the bolts - the rock is better quality and IMHO the moves are super fun as originally done. You can only do so much with a line of bolts to force certain sequences so this is bound to happen. He said it still felt challenging (11/11+), so "choose your own adventure" and have fun! Oct 18, 2021