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Routes in 5 - Whippersnapper Wall
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Blood S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Canyon of the Crescent Moon S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Canyon of the Crescent Moon (Full Moon Extension) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cross of Coronado, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Curse of the Jackal S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Don't Call me Junior! S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Golden Fleece, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hang the DJ S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Iron Phoenix S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Knowledge was their Treasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Misery and Gin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Mutton Buster S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Ol’ Dusty Trail S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Raiders of the Lost Crack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Redpoint Redemption S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stags in Rut S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Temple of Doom S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Temple of the Sun S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 140 ft (42 m) |
| GPS: | 31.69331, -110.43068 |
| FA: | Nick Henscheid, Scott Pryor, Jonathan King, Jeff Gicklhorn |
| Page Views: | 1,534 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Henscheid on Mar 22, 2021 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW !
Details
Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.
Description
Important Note: this route is 40+m long! You will need to lower or rappel twice, using the midpoint anchor (anchor for "Temple of the Sun"). A 70m is *DEFINITELY* required to double lower. An 80m may not get you to the ground. With a 60m you will need to rappel! Please use caution and tie knots.
Temple of Doom takes one of the proudest lines up the Whippersnapper wall, tackling nearly 40m of sustained, fantastic climbing all the way to the top of the cliff. While somewhat bouldery in nature with many full recovery rests to be found between difficulties, it is also very sustained in that there are at least 5 distinct crux sections, each unique and challenging, so you may find yourself struggling to pull the final 5.10 bulge at the end.
Start by climbing "Temple of the Sun", the 11b first pitch (listed as a separate route). Clip a long runner to the chains, rest up, then proceed towards the first crux of the second pitch: a very cryptic sequence of slots, pockets, sidepulls and a bizarre loaf hold. Tackle a few bolts of easier terrain then rest up again before the second (upper) crux, which launches into a steeper section of bullet grey rock. Find your path through widely spaced pockets, sidepulls, a toe-hook or two and a perfect chert knob that hopefully sticks around. Continue on for another 30-40 feet of joyous 5.10 to the chains.
Because of its length and sustained difficulty, this route took a long time for me to suss out and send. I went back and forth many times about the grade, thinking it could be as easy as 11a/b and as hard as mid 5.12 at times. When it came down to it, it only took two lead tries from the ground to get the send on the full line, with 4 or 5 tries to get the first pitch ("Temple of the Sun"). I worked the upper cruxes on TR several times. Ultimately I think 11+ is appropriate but consensus will tell!
I'm also giving it a heavily biased four stars knowing that it needs a little cleaning yet to be perfect, mostly around the 3rd & 4th bolts and at the very top. 99% of the rock is immaculate and the movement is spectacular.
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