Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m), Grade III
FA: FKA Daniel Sierra
Page Views: 448 total · 9/month
Shared By: Daniel Sierra on Mar 13, 2021
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This route climbs a dirty corner crack on the far north side of the main formation. Located in the large corner above the flat rock where you see people frequently soak in the sun. In side the corner/chute you can see 3 distinct crack systems, while we did climb all 3; the right most crack in the dihedral is the best line. The crux is right from the start where some deeper fist and foot jams help you up the slightly over hanging crack which ends half way up. Step up onto the little rock pedestal thing and continue up the corner crack system to the top, where you can stand off to climbers right while you set up a top rope. Its a nice little climb if you want more after sending the standard route or are looking for a fun warm up. Felt like it merited being added to MP due to its easy TR access, and decent first trad lead. It is pretty dirty in the middle, helmet advised for your belayer. 

Location Suggest change

If you park in front of the standard route, walk down climbers right through the faint trail past/around the chicken head formation. As you come around the corner you should see a big, sort of closed off corner with three crack systems. The base of the climb is a great chill spot and is a bit sheltered from the wind. 

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack from .4 to 3 (double #3 if you really want to stitch it) C4 lets you protect it nicely. Smaller nut, a double length sling around the back horn, the .4 lets you make a pretty good 3 point anchor to top rope. You can also hike up the back and set the top rope from there. Hike off the back when you're all done.

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