Savannah

Most years this section of the wall is covered in verglas and would be a heady if not downright scary lead.  On fat years the ice will come in thick enough for protection.  During the first ascent the the ice was too thin for pro in the bottom 20 feet but higher on the wall it became thicker.  Still, you will want mostly short screws even in fat years.  This is a wide sheet of ice so pick the line with the thickest looking ice!  Easier ground at the bottom leads to steeper climbing near the top.  There are no convenient rappel trees over the lip so either V-thread in the lip if the ice is thick enough or top out and walk over to a nearby tree.  A 60m rope will stretch to reach the base of Max’s Bloodline (on the 3rd tier) so there is always ice available for an anchor there as well.

The wide sheet of ice on the 2nd Tier to the right of the Splendid Angharad and Capable.

Short screws, the FA party ground out a couple 16cm's because they didn't have enough 13cm's.