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Edge of Eternity

5.11d, Trad, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: Wayne Wallace, Robert McGrown, Tim Olson, FFA 2-25-88
Oregon > Portland & The… > Broughton Bluff > Bridge Cliff

Description

Located in the middle of Bridge Cliff is a clean crack topped by a roof with a bolt on it. 

The first pitch has the crux protected by a bolt and the second pitch is all bolted. Super fun and super safe. Get on it! 

Pitch 1: Do some easy climbing on gear to get to a crux bolt, make the crux move right around the corner. Place some more optional pro and make your way to anchors.  There are three anchors on the ledge. I went to the middle one to set up for the second pitch. Tim Olson calls this pitch 5.11. 

Pitch 2: Fully bolted and kicks up with some intensity. Follow the bolt line immediately above you.  In the middle of the rock face there are two bolt lines that are close together. Take the left of the two. I found moving off the first bolt to be the first crux. There are two distinct cruxes. Tim calls this 11+ and that feels somewhat accurate to me. 

Pitch 3: There is a third pitch but I have not been on it yet. But I have been told "...it's recognizable as it’s on a short arete with a few bolts. The old original bolts were left in so if u see some super old looking home made bolts on that, you know you are on route."

Variation: With a bolt on the first pitch it gives you the ability to bail left. This is called Escape from Eternity.

Location

In the middle of Bridge Cliff. Climb up to roof and move right around. Continue directly up for second pitch 

Protection

Gear to crux bolt. Bolts from there to the top with an optional #1 BD after crux. Bolts from there up. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch 1 of Edge of Eternity. There may or may not be a bolt at the roof.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1 of Edge of Eternity. There may or may not be a bolt at the roof.
Contemplating the second pitch. The bolts of Up Your Buttress are visible on the left hand side.
[Hide Photo] Contemplating the second pitch. The bolts of Up Your Buttress are visible on the left hand side.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Bowlsby
Gresham, OR
[Hide Comment] 4/26/25, Pitch 1 Bolt at crux roof bulge is missing it's hanger. Apr 26, 2025
Sage Bedell
Seattle, WA
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] The bolt was probably removed because the first pitch was FAed without a bolt and Stark later added it. Apr 28, 2025