AKA Northwest Face, while the Northeast Face is a simple scramble, this is a long, exposed undertaking on excellent gneiss with continuous climbing and good protection.
P1-5: 700 feet of 4th and low 5th with some steeper steps, can be simulclimbed.
P6-14: The business, following crack systems on excellent rock. P6 5.8+, P7 5.7, P8 5.6, P9 5.9, P10 5.7, P11 5.8, P12 5.6, P13/14 5.7. This will finish on the ridge crest.
P15: Easy, exposed pitch along the ridge to the summit.
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From the FA: Jeff Hansell and I made this new route (IV 5.9) on September 10, 2001. Little Big Chief Mountain is located in the seldom-visited Summit Chief Valley in the North Central Cascades. The Summit Chief Valley is a tributary of the Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie River Valley. The route is never really hard, but is remote and demands a variety of alpine skills.
From camp ascend a talus field for 900 feet to the base of the route at a prominent left- trending gully. Follow this for 50 feet; move right to a dead tree. Go up and right to another dead tree and continue to easier terrain. Ascend sloping heather benches to the prominent right-trending ramp and follow it to the beginning of difficulties, just left of the prominent chimney.
From the end of the Middle Fork Valley Road, hike up the valley for about three hours. At a small steel bridge, leave the trail and hike cross-country in a southerly direction to the entrance of the Summit Chief Valley. The objective should be visible on the east side of the valley. Hike up into the Summit Chief Valley until you reach the flat gravel wash at about 4,650'. There are great low-impact camp spots.
Standard alpine rack with a few small pitons.
Seattle, WA