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The Golden Fleece
5.9,
Sport, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 1.4 from 7
votes
FA: Nick Henscheid, Scott Pryor, Jeff Gicklhorn
Arizona
> Southern Arizona
> Farmhouse
> 5 - Whippersnapper Wall
Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW !
Details
You walk across private land to enter this area. The landowner has been tolerant so long as we don't disturb his land or his cattle. To keep a good relationship with him it is extremely important that climbers don't mess with grazing cattle, and that ALL GATES STAY AS THEY ARE FOUND. Also, the large gate on the north side of the parking area MUST NOT BE BLOCKED IN ANY WAY; the rancher regularly uses this gate as he drives a truck pulling a large trailer, so the road leading to said gate MUST STAY CLEAR by least 40 feet on all sides, including the road perpendicular to it (running east-west). If the parking area is full, drive past the bridge and park on the next pullout (not far), and NEVER BY THE GATE.
Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.
Description
While perhaps not a king line, this link-up does add an enjoyable new moderate route up the right side of Whippersnapper, and you get to climb the best part of Mutton Buster.
Start up Knowledge was their Treasure, following interesting, technical, low-angle climbing until a large horizontal cave/pocket just before the wall begins to steepen. From here, look left to see a single link-up bolt towards the upper part of Mutton Buster; pull an interesting move to gain the ledge, clip the link-up bolt, then traverse over to finish on Mutton Buster. Note that you will NOT clip the chain draw on Knowledge, you will traverse before that.
It's a good idea to use a long quickdraw on the first bolt of Mutton Buster to minimize rope drag. Cleaning the route is a bit of a pain - make sure to use a "follower" quick draw.
Location
Starts the same as "Knowledge was their Treasure", but cuts left to finish on "Mutton Buster" just before the angle kicks back.
Protection
12ish bolts to lower-offs.
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