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Routes in 5 - Whippersnapper Wall
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Blood S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Canyon of the Crescent Moon S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Canyon of the Crescent Moon (Full Moon Extension) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cross of Coronado, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Curse of the Jackal S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Don't Call me Junior! S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Golden Fleece, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hang the DJ S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Iron Phoenix S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Knowledge was their Treasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Misery and Gin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Mutton Buster S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Ol’ Dusty Trail S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Raiders of the Lost Crack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Redpoint Redemption S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stags in Rut S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Temple of Doom S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Temple of the Sun S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Nick Henscheid, Scott Pryor, Jeff Gicklhorn |
| Page Views: | 324 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Henscheid on Feb 13, 2021 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman |
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Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW !
Details
You walk across private land to enter this area. The landowner has been tolerant so long as we don't disturb his land or his cattle. To keep a good relationship with him it is extremely important that climbers don't mess with grassing cattle, and that ALL GATES STAY AS THEY ARE FOUND. Also, the large gate on the north side of the parking area MUST NOT BE BLOCKED IN ANY WAY; the farmer regularly uses this gate as he drives a truck pulling a large trailer, so the road leading to said gate MUST STAY CLEAR by least 40 feet on all sides, including the road perpendicular to it (running east-west). If the parking area is full, drive past the bridge and park on the next pullout (not far), and NEVER BY THE GATE.
Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.
Description
While perhaps not a king line, this link-up does add an enjoyable new moderate route up the right side of Whippersnapper, and you get to climb the best part of Mutton Buster.
Start up Knowledge was their Treasure, following interesting, technical, low-angle climbing until a large horizontal cave/pocket just before the wall begins to steepen. From here, look left to see a single link-up bolt towards the upper part of Mutton Buster; pull an interesting move to gain the ledge, clip the link-up bolt, then traverse over to finish on Mutton Buster. Note that you will NOT clip the chain draw on Knowledge, you will traverse before that.
It's a good idea to use a long quickdraw on the first bolt of Mutton Buster to minimize rope drag. Cleaning the route is a bit of a pain - make sure to use a "follower" quick draw.
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