Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Nick Henscheid, Scott Pryor, Jeff Gicklhorn
Page Views: 324 total · 21/month
Shared By: Nick Henscheid on Feb 13, 2021
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW ! Details

Description

While perhaps not a king line, this link-up does add an enjoyable new moderate route up the right side of Whippersnapper, and you get to climb the best part of Mutton Buster.

Start up Knowledge was their Treasure, following interesting, technical, low-angle climbing until a large horizontal cave/pocket just before the wall begins to steepen.  From here, look left to see a single link-up bolt towards the upper part of Mutton Buster; pull an interesting move to gain the ledge, clip the link-up bolt, then traverse over to finish on Mutton Buster.  Note that you will NOT clip the chain draw on Knowledge, you will traverse before that.

It's a good idea to use a long quickdraw on the first bolt of Mutton Buster to minimize rope drag.  Cleaning the route is a bit of a pain - make sure to use a "follower" quick draw.

Location

Starts the same as "Knowledge was their Treasure", but cuts left to finish on "Mutton Buster" just before the angle kicks back.

Protection

12ish bolts to lower-offs.

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