Type: Mixed, Ice, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: February 11, 2021 WW, Christian Junkar, Tom Beirne
Page Views: 847 total · 22/month
Shared By: Wayne Wallace on Feb 11, 2021
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

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Description Suggest change

 There are two cruxes on this amazing route, the first one is getting to the first section of ice. It clocks in at M7. The next section is a dribble of ice typically and very awkward water ice 5+. The main crux is getting through the roofs. It helps to have an ice curtain on it to have it only be an 8+. The finish is super exciting too. I currently have eight bolts on it but may add several more. The gear that I used in between bolts are as follows a .5 Camelot, a black totem cam,and one screw. In typical condition, this climb is not that hard for the grade. 

Everyone has that has climbed it agrees it’s one of the best routes of its type anywhere. Enjoy

Location Suggest change

Follow directions to Rap Wall, Alpental Valley, AVALANCHE DANGER!Currently it’s the bolted route to the left of ghost dog. The first bolt is really high. Consider stick clipping or use the .5 Camelot in a horizontal at the start.

Protection Suggest change

8 bolts , bring long runners, .5 cam,.2 cam, a screw, and the motherfuckin ruckus! This route has cut ropes so be careful.
    It can be top roped by climbing wi2 gully on left end of cliff, then 2 30m rappels off small trees to chains. Avalanche danger.

Photos

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