Type: Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 716 total · 14/month
Shared By: Gab Charette on Feb 9, 2021
Admins: Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Sur le côté droit de la face principale de glace, une section de roche reste quasiment toujours dry (casser la mince couche de glace de quelques millimètres s'il y a lieu).
Grimper le départ en glace, placer une cam #1, #2 ou #3 dans la section de rocher. Un move de mixte avec un high step sur la roche à gauche (crux) et c'est reparti pour la finale dans le beau dièdre de glace.

On the right side of the main ice face, a bulge of rock typically remains dry (or has a tiny layer of ice you can/should breakoff).
Head up the ice into the obvious 5 feet wide rock "box". A dry crack here provides bomber protection for a #1 (low), #2 (middle), and/or #3 (high).
High step left (crux) and find your way into the ice/rock dihedral for a finish on good ice.
Bonus: The ice at the beginning of this route is a bit more steep and less peckered than La Labedan.

Location Suggest change

This route follows the same path as the summer route "Les pieds dans l'eau" (seldomly done in summer, often wet...).

Protection Suggest change

Screws and cams #2 or #3 (or #1 low in same crack).

Photos

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