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Canyon of the Crescent Moon (Full Moon Extension)

5.11b, Sport, 140 ft (42 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 7 votes
FA: Nick Henscheid, Jeff Gicklhorn Feb 2021
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Farmhouse > 5 - Whippersnapper Wall
Warning Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW ! DetailsDrop down

Description

WARNING: this route is longer than 40 meters.  It is extremely unlikely that you can lower to the ground with a 70m or 80m rope - use the midpoint anchor to double lower or rappel twice.  You should be able to double lower with a 60m but this has not been tested - TIE KNOTS!  If you have never double lowered before, make sure you learn how first!

Canyon of the Crescent Moon now has an extension that takes it to a logical conclusion at top of the wall.  Since the existing Crescent Moon has been well-received, is a lower grade, and ends at a logical midway point, I'll post this as a separate route.  I may come up with a more cleverer name eventually.

While the grade is certainly higher (than Crescent Moon), the crux is short, extremely fun and well-protected.  In my biased opinion, the extension adds a strong half to full star to the existing route, making it into a long, extremely varied and exciting full value line.  

From the anchor on Crescent Moon, make an insecure mantle onto a ledge, then head for the bolts.  After the first few feet of so-so rock, you'll find yourself in a sea of high-quality limestone, featuring pockets, sidepulls and crimp slots, leading up to a steepening section of featured rock with some neat flowstone.  Rest up before launching into a final crux that requires power, footwork and body position.  More grin-inducing pockets and a final insecure mantle guard the chains.  Make sure to turn around and enjoy the view!

Grade is a bit of a guess, I felt tired today but sent (the extension) on only my second try. Could go either way.


Location

Extension to Canyon of the Crescent Moon.

Protection

24 bolts (12 for CotCM, 12 for extension). Midpoint anchors and top anchors, both with lower-offs.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Canyon of the Crescent Moon, Extension.  Photo: Matt Martinez
[Hide Photo] Canyon of the Crescent Moon, Extension. Photo: Matt Martinez

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kemper Brightman
The Old Pueblo, AZ
[Hide Comment] Can't wait to get on this! so sick Nick and Jeff! Feb 7, 2021
Nick Henscheid
Seattle, WA
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] @Kemper: Definitely need a couple more opinions on the grade, excited for you to get on it! Feb 8, 2021
David Ellis
Tucson
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Excellent route! Bolted and cleaned well. Quality rock and enjoyable climbing with a thoughtful crux with fun moves. Great job! Mar 17, 2021
Nick Henscheid
Seattle, WA
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Psyched that you got on it and liked it! You're probably spot on with the 11- grade, too. Climbs like a long 10d into a V2 boulder problem. Mar 18, 2021
David Ellis
Tucson
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Had such a good time on the route I was thinking about it more. Despite the crux being in my style, it still gave me pause and required more effort from me than I was expecting to put forth. I wouldn't argue it being in the 11b/11 range at all. Again, great work on this one! Mar 19, 2021
[Hide Comment] I think this is longer than 40m. Attempting to lower with an 80m rope left me about 25ft off the ground. I'll emphasize the advice to tie a knot and double rap/lower regardless of how long your rope is. May 31, 2021
Nick Henscheid
Seattle, WA
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] @Zach Good to know! I guess I was being modest. I will try to get more careful measurements next time I'm out.

Hope you enjoyed the route! May 31, 2021