PRINT: Rock Climb The Great White North, Squamish

The Great White North

5.13d, Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches,

Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Andrew Boyd, Jeremy Smith
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Tantalus Wall

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

This 5 pitch route is one of the most continuously difficult multi pitches in Squamish.

P1. 5.12d. A. Boyd. Face climb up the bolt line to the right of Cannabis Wall placing some small pro at the flake mid pitch.

P2. 5.13b. J. Smith. Traverse right on a thin dyke until all holds disappear. Go another 10 ft right through impossible looking terrain to the belay at P2 of Milk Run.

P3. 5.12b. A. Boyd. Climb up and left following bolts through fun bouldery climbing.

P4. "The Lightning Bolt" 5.12a. A Boyd. Head up and left on underclings following the awesome feature. All gear.

P5. "Good Boy Scoutie" 5.13d. J. Smith. Head up and right on bolts through improbable moves on chicken heads. Bring a green alien if you don't want to run out the final 5.10 section.

P6. 5.11a. Head up and right on bolts to reach the belay.

Finish up Midnight Run or Crescent Ramp.

Location

In between Cannabis Wall and Milk Run.

Protection

Set of draws and a double set of cams to Red C4.