Type: Snow, Alpine, 1400 ft (424 m), Grade II
FA: Julien Bacon and Lukas Speckhardt
Page Views: 673 total · 17/month
Shared By: Lukas Speckhardt on Jan 27, 2021 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

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Description Suggest change

A pretty consistent winter route that varies between 45º for the first few hundred feet, then steadily getting steeper and steeper (70º) near the top. The gully runs up the SE side of Guye, ending at the ridge between the true and false summits. The route is about 50/50 in shade and sun, which yields pretty solid snow under the surface. There are few good rest spots on the way up, mostly tree wells and slightly less steep parts. 

Location Suggest change

(Start: DD: 47.4411º, -121.4026º UTM: 10T 0620437E 5255420N) 

Starting on the Old Commonwealth Basin trail (that runs SE and loops north), continue about 1.4 miles in, once the peak of Guye is directly W/NW (290º), head straight up the mountain. The route starts off going 45º straight up, then the gully develops, turning NW for about 40m and gaining in grade. The gully then continues directly towards the summit, which can be seen for much of the route. 

Protection Suggest change

Ice axe needed, picket and rope recommended (can definitely be done with 30m, but 50m would be best in most places). Crampons required. Minimal, if any rock placement in peak season, so best leave that at home. There are a few trees worth belaying from, so a sling or two is helpful. A running belay works well for most of this route.

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