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Warm Shoulder

5.9, Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Nicholas van der Elst , Zack Green 1/21
California > Joshua Tree NP > Indian Cove > Rattlesnake Canyon > Pyramid
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details DetailsDrop down

Description

Scrappy offwidth that could clean up nicely with traffic. Suffers from interspersed ledges, but the final squeeze is very enjoyable. We did it in two pitches but could easily be done in one without much rope drag.

Grovel up a slot with a tree at its base to a vegetated ledge. At the back of the ledge, a trihedral takes you up to an obvious deep hand crack on the right side of an ear formation. Carefully surmount the horn at the top of the ear to another ledge at the base of a flared slot. Belay here or continue up the glorious squeeze chimney using good edges. The slot widens up to the base of a constriction that forces you to exit the chimney (crux). Once around the constriction, dive back into the chimney and grovel up to a big ledge at the top. Belay takes hand sized pieces accessed by laying on your stomach at the back (west) edge of the ledge.

Route would benefit from rap anchors, two ropes would be required. 

Location

Scramble straight up from the wash (see approach photos from Six Flinger Fist). Starts in the obvious wide slot to the left above a half dead tree. 

Descent is a bit of a vision quest. A walk off may be possible but would be a trek. We tunneled trough a non-obvious slot off the back of the belay, chimney'd up into the light, stepped over a chasm, and scrambled up another 100' before traversing east to get above the anchors for Six Finger Fist. A short downclimb through some choss and vegetation brings you to the anchors where we left tat and a ring (Jan 2021). Would recommending doing SFF first to get a sense of where the anchors are and bringing new rap hardware, or a bolt kit. 

Protection

Standard rack with doubles in #4-5 and single #6

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking at the crag from the south, belays circled and anchors on Six Finger Fist shown
[Hide Photo] Looking at the crag from the south, belays circled and anchors on Six Finger Fist shown
Nico starting up
[Hide Photo] Nico starting up
Nico at the ear
[Hide Photo] Nico at the ear
Lower slot, middle ear section, and upper chimney
[Hide Photo] Lower slot, middle ear section, and upper chimney