Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 397 total · 10/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Jan 13, 2021
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This route is a moderate way to gain the top of the Houser or Dodo Buttresses if you wish to TR routes on either formation.

Start at the base of the gully that separates Houser Buttress and Dodo Buttress. Climb up a crack on the left edge of the gully (as you would to access the starts of Dummy's Delight and Ladyfinger).

Instead of moving left to Dummy's Delight and Ladyfinger, continue straight up a crack on a narrowing buttress. You'll pass a nolina and as you get higher and the buttress narrows, it becomes quite obvious there is a huge chasm on your left and a chimney on your right. The crack on the narrowing buttress eventually ends and a short section of exposed but easy face climbing leads to the top. If the route is somewhat near your limit, carry gear to a blue or grey Camalot with an extra red and gold Camalot for the crack and a double-length sling to drape over a flake near the top, before the final face climbing to the summit.

You can use the rope to wrap a large rock fin on the top as a belay anchor.

Descend down and skiers left about 20 feet to the rappel anchor atop Lucky Lady. Rappel with one 60m rope down Lucky Lady.

Location Suggest change

Start at the base of the gully that separates Houser Buttress and Dodo Buttress. Climb up a crack on the left edge of the gully (as you would to access Dummy's Delight and Ladyfinger).

Protection Suggest change

Carry gear to a blue Camalot with an extra red and gold Camalot and a double-length sling to drape over a flake near the top.

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