Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Cereal Wall | 4425

5.10 R, Trad, 370 ft (112 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 1.8 from 4 votes
FA: Thomas Kelley & John Tainio
N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Rumbling Bald > Cereal Wall

Description

Coined in NC select as one of the longest routes at Rumbling Bald. Nut n Homo is an older line with a dangerous first pitch and a grimy crux. Pitch 1 starts left of a tree that has fallen against the wall. Climb up the slab onto a ledge. Surmount the small bulge and aim for the first bolt. Careful as the feet in this are exfoliating and a slip would result in a back breaking fall onto the tree and then the ground. Climb to another bolt and then angle left a a wide crack. Build a belay somewhere comfy under the roof 5.8 R
Pitch 2 make a mellow traverse left under the roof eventually pulling onto the face and continuing left. Pass by the anchor station and keep going until you make it to a huge spacious and comfy ledge under the crack system 5.8
Pitch 3 climb the weird arching wife crack which is a little dirty as this thing doesn’t get any traffic. Make off balance moves to where there is a blank section in the crack. Negotiate your way through this past the tiny dead tree/sapling/bush thing. Follow the crack and then cut back right to a ledge where you can build a belay. 5.10
Pitch 4 climb up pockets and pinches to the summit 5.9
Rap back down the stations you passed on the way up

Location

Pitch one starts left of the tree lying up against the wall which is left of the corner for Snap Crackle Pop

Protection

What ever your standard Carolina rack is. Nothing special. One 3 and one 3.5 or similar

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2
Brian Barwatt on the crux pitch photo by Carson S.
[Hide Photo] Brian Barwatt on the crux pitch photo by Carson S.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Michael Atlas
Charlotte, NC
 
[Hide Comment] Don't do the R pitch, it was pretty tough, gritty, and has super high consequences. There is absolutely no pro between the bolts. Without a super long stick clip (we had a 6+ foot one), you also can't clip the bolt from the good holds below. Opt for the overgrown tree crack to the right, then traverse over to the crack belay below the roof. P2 is really fun and ends up at a super exposed stemming chimney - plenty of gear options to keep that section safe. P3 of Nut N Homo stays wet 4 days after rain. If you are up to it, do the 11 b / c Wild Hickory Nuts pitch 3 instead. Feb 9, 2021
Dylan Valvo
Marshall NC
  5.10 R
[Hide Comment] Good point regarding the wet nature of pitch 3 and I should have mentioned this.I would bet it maintains some moist sections until the summer.
When a route is given a safety rating of R in proper context that means if you fell on said R section you will get hurt. If you can stick clip through the R section it’s probably not gonna be R rated. Never heard of anyone dragging a stick clip up a 5.8 slab. Feb 13, 2021
[Hide Comment] more like r/x . No real reliable pro to first bolt. 30+ ft fall onto a downed tree would most likely result in a visit to the ICU. with plenty more R after that. Exfoliating holds made it feel more like 5.9. Jan 15, 2024