Type: Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches
FA: Dakota Walz & Lane Mathis Dec 2020
Page Views: 512 total · 12/month
Shared By: Dakota from North Dakota on Jan 4, 2021
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a direct variation to New Ewe that more or less drives up the center of Nugget Mesa’s prominent west face. After deviating from the standard route by skipping the Forest Ledge traverse, you won’t find any bolts until rejoining with New Ewe again at P8. 

The R rating comes from the small and sometimes non existent gear placements right off the ledge on P5. Additionally, some of the rock in the crux can be very friable and unreliable. Any mistake in the first 30ft above Forest Ledge is dangerous. If you have to ask yourself if you should try to onsight this, the answer is likely, “no”.

With that said, the climbing is a joy of varied technical movement. 

P1-4 5.10-5.11+, 410ft
Climb New Ewe

P5** 5.12-, R 115ft
From the Forest Ledge, climb straight up the seamed crack above the belay. Most of the difficult climbing is right off of the ledge with only some of it being protected by a .4 sized cam. Above, great micro nuts encourage some confidence in exciting face moves on steep terrain. After the no hands rest, a tricky stem and a committing roof step around highlight the latter half of this great pitch. Belay on hand pieces at the higher stance at almost exactly 35m. 

P6* 5.9 R, 150ft 
This long pitch starts with great rock and fun, relaxing climbing. As it continues to lean right, it progressively gets dirtier and harder to protect. Until, at the very end, there is no protection for a lot of easy climbing. Belay with hand pieces on a long, broken ledge.

P7** 5.8 PG, 65ft 
Traverse straight left across the broken ledge. A hand piece and a really crappy micro cam protect an exciting step across a void. Then, climb straight up into an enclosed chimney. Belay at a single bolt that can be backed up with tall hand pieces and/or the tree. 

P8 5.10+, 130ft
Finish on P8 of New Ewe

Protection Suggest change

Single .1, .2, #4, #5, #6
Doubles .5 - #3,
Triples .3 and .4
Micro nuts
Draws/slings
Single 70m rope

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