Normal al Mallo Pisón

The normal route on Mallo Pisón is the route of the first ascent of the Pisón in 1946 as well as the easiest path to the summit from the col at the top of the Macizo,  

Time and weather permitting, this route would be a logical finish to the Pany-Haus or Espolón de Adamello especially if the summit of the Mallo Pisón is desired.

3 pitches consisting of 30m at IV to V+ (depending on line of ascent), 35m at IV to V and finishing with 25m of V+. 

Start by climbing up and diagonally left passing some awkward bulges.  Easier ground leads to the belay anchors in a shallow niche.   The second pitch has a short traverse right to easier ground.   Climb up until the big ledge, the Cornisa Edílica, is reached which is followed to the left (some no-hands walking) to a belay anchor at the end of the ledge.  The last pitch traverses up and left through some bulges and holes then up and slightly right to the anchor or up further to a large juniper tree with anchor.  Easy scrambling to the summit brings one to the top of the formation. 

The route is a wandering line which has short, difficult bits followed by easier climbing.  Very much a path of least resistance likely not having the elegance or cachet of the more direct routes like Chopperior. 

Descent:  

 From the shoulder overlooking the col, follow the cable wire hand rail down to the rappel anchor (white rappel rings).   Do two 35m rappels back to the col.   

Down climb and rappel the cable route (the cable can be used to protect the down climbs much like a via ferrata).   From the col, rappel 30m to the “garden” and follow cable to rappel anchor.  Rap 30m to gully and follow cable to rap anchor.  Rap 35m to the steep cable wire which can be used to descend or rappel this 15m section leading to the Cornisa de los Volas ledge.   

After a short 10m rappel (or cable protected down climb?), a steep, free air rappel from the ledge which may be done as 60m to the ground (watch the rope ends!).  The last rappels can be broken into shorter rappels to 35m.  

Take care with rope management and loose rock as this descent is the standard get off for the formation as well as being above a number of climbing routes.  Wear a helmet and proceed carefully and cautiously. 

The Normal al Mallo Pisón is historically important as the first route to the summit of the Pisón.  The climbers approached on the first ascent from a descent from Mallo la Visera to the Canal del Clavijón.  This route was a stepping stone (!) for Jordi Panyella who returned a couple months later to climb what would be the hardest route in Riglos:  The Pany-Haus. 

Upper east shoulder of the Mallo Pisón.

Route starts at the col above the west end of the saddle top of Macizo I.