Type: Trad, Alpine, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Bill Overton, Eli Conlee, June 2019
Page Views: 301 total · 18/month
Shared By: Eli Conlee on Dec 29, 2020
Admins: Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

So named for the date of the FA and the climbers. "Dia de los Padres" was first climbed on Father's Day 2019 by Bill (Father of 3) and Eli (freshly minted father of 1)

Start from base of main face - ~5m right of the crack - with a scramble traverse. Once you've crossed the small scree gulley using bits of decent rock, fight off the bushes and catch the obvious crack. Once at the base of the crack, make awkward moves with weird & reachy pro to get into the better parts of the feature. Crux is probably in the first 15 feet. Once in the crack, it's fun 5.7/8 alpine-style granite with a couple chimney moves to the top with good (but still dirty) rock. 

One loose flake came off on 2nd ascent (might make for a second funky 5.8+ move?) and route still needs cleaned - helmets needed for anyone at the base.

Finish at the largest tree just above crack system after fighting off a couple more bushes. Look for black 1" webbing anchor & steel ring on tree from 2019 FA. Use at your own risk.

Belayer should find good stance and chest-level crack for a good nut placement just above top of gulley near some tiny rock outcroppings at base.

Location

From Sawtooth Lodge (especially from the porch of "The Managers Cabin"), look NE for the most obvious granite face feature approx. 1/3rd of the way up the valley wall. There's a large crack feature that begins near a very large (and obvious) burned tree. The Crack bears up and left past a roof and ends and standalone pine tree in the upper-middle of the small cliff band.

Approach from the Lodge along FS-524 road and cut up through the trees to the base. Approach is forest, talus/scree, and loose, so exercise caution - and it's STEEP.

Base of climb begins at crack in small gulley. Best belay stance is 5 meters right of the base near some solid rock and bushes. Belay can be protected with a bomber nut placement.

On the approach, don't get sucked into the crack feature down around the corner to the left (though that could be another route) or the small cracks up and right of the main face.

Additional routes could easily be TR'd from the tree anchor and there looks to be a great face line over the roof to the right of the top of this route.

Protection

Full rack to #3 Cams, doubles of #1-3 is helpful. Slings to extend and cordellette for Anchor. Tree anchor with webbing & steel rap ring placed on 5/2019.

Photos