Type: Boulder, 19 ft (6 m)
FA: Zach Galla
Page Views: 317 total · 28/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Dec 27, 2020
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Sit start on the left side of the overhanging wall on some good edges. Make a big move up Lefty then span out right to a sidepull. Move in lefty to another crimp then thrutch out righty to a bad sloping sidepull and execute a big bump to a meat wraplike pinch. A hard match followed by a few more long moves gains the top of the boulder.

A little history of this climb.

 My brother, Troy, was working "Lord of the Dance" and I had a vision for a climb to the left from a stand start. I scrubbed it up for about half an hour and cleaned it off before I tried it. I could never figure out a sequence that worked and it felt very difficult. I showed the line to Troy and he didn't think it was climbable and didn't try it at all.

About a year or so later, Troy sent me a video of Zach Galla climbing "Brass Knuckles". I was in shock and psyched to see that somebody else believed in the climb that I saw, scrubbed and tried. The line I had scrubbed ended up being the end sequence of the V14.

Location

This boulder problem is found on the same overhang as "Riverdance" but on the far left. It shares the starting holds with "Stankins", which has yet to be climbed post-break.

Protection

3-6 pads. The landing is fairly flat.

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