PRINT: Rock Climb Self Selecting Substrate, Central Coast

Self Selecting Substrate

5.6, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),

Avg: 2.4 from 8 votes
FA: Robert Behrens, Jon Cochran, Bob Walton. FA Date: January 17, 2015
California > Central Coast > Pinnacles NP > W Side > Flumes Formation > Upper Flumes Formation

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:

Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.

SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.

As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.

The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.

All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.

All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.

Description

Start 30 feet right of Masters of Mischief. Climb 30 feet to a headwall and the first bolt. Move up and right over the headwall. Four more bolts lead to a two-bolt anchor with chains.

Location

Start 30 feet right of Masters of Mischief.

Protection

5 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kurt leading, from the first bolt on substrate.

JC leads Self Selecting Substrate (at the crux)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kurt Madland
Camarillo, CA

My climbing partner and I both thought this 5.6 was clearly more difficult than "Where the Sun Shines" 5.7 just to the right. YMMV. Oct 29, 2023

JC w KC redux

5.6

Kurt - if you look at the picture of you leading past the first bolt and compare it to the one of me - you'll notice that you are trying to go straight up past the bolt and I am getting ready to step through to the right. Last time we were up there we noticed that people had broken holds trying to do it the same way you guys did. Stepping through right and then up keeps it at the grade and avoids unknown/unclimbed territory. Hope that helps. Oct 31, 2023

munge

Repeated this for the umpteenth time. Definitely easier than Where the Sun Shines. Still enjoy climbing this one. Jan 19, 2025