PRINT: Rock Climb East Peak of the Gothics - South Face, British Columbia

East Peak of the Gothics - South Face

5.9 A1, Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV,

Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: August 15th, 1983: Gustavo Brillembourg and Peter Cole
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Selkirks (North… > Adamants > 3. S & W Faces (from…

Description

I don't remember alot about this route. It was the 1st of our 18 hour routes (the 2nd was on the Stickle 3 days later). Took 7 pitches to find our way to the summit (mixed free and easy aid).. After which, we did 7 raps to get off via the Southeast Rib to the East Peak - Gargoyle Col which gave us access to the long snow gully back to the glacier below.

There is a more detailed route description on page 344 (route #515) in David Jone's guide to the Northern Selkirks. Interestingly enough, I did not write that but upon reflection it sounds pretty accurate to me.

Protection

Mountaineering: few if any fixed anchors on these peaks

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A "very approximate" estimate of where our route of the S Face of the East Peak of the Gothics went. Pioneer Peak and the Stickle to the left.

Gustavo Brillembourg at the summit of the E Peak of the Gothics after doing a new route on the South Face in August 1983

East to the Can Rocks from the top of the East Peak of the Gothics in August 1983

Gustavo arriving at the Feldspar band on the S Face

Gustavo high up on the route, but still below the Feldspar band

Gustavo jugging on P4

Gustavo on the approach to the East Peak of the Gothics