Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: August 15th, 1983: Gustavo Brillembourg and Peter Cole
Page Views: 178 total · 13/month
Shared By: Peter Cole on Dec 15, 2020
Admins: Robert Hall, Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route

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I don't remember alot about this route. It was the 1st of our 18 hour routes (the 2nd was on the Stickle 3 days later). Took 7 pitches to find our way to the summit (mixed free and easy aid).. After which, we did 7 raps to get off via the Southeast Rib to the East Peak - Gargoyle Col which gave us access to the long snow gully back to the glacier below.

There is a more detailed route description on page 344 (route #515) in David Jone's guide to the Northern Selkirks. Interestingly enough, I did not write that but upon reflection it sounds pretty accurate to me.


Mountaineering: few if any fixed anchors on these peaks