Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

The Hunger

5.11d, Trad, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Dave Sowerby, August 1992
Oregon > Portland & The… > Broughton Bluff > (6) Bat Wall

Description

Start by stepping off the large boulder at the far, far right side of the Bat Wall. Engage a small dihedral and crack system straight up to a good stance under the bulge. Place a great hand-sized piece and work into some strenuous underclings culminating in a dynamic crux move to a horn. Pull into another stance with good opportunities for small gear and work the ramp back out left. Clip the new stainless 5-piece bolt (with an ASCA-stamped hanger) that has replaced the original one. Work up and left on amazing holds (pinches, sidepulls, a kneebar!?!) to a final crux at the undercling with a second ASCA bolt at your waist. 

Location

far far right side of the bat wall (starts by stepping off a large boulder)

Protection

Single rack to BD #1, with some extras in the purple to blue Metolius range (green and red C3s). Two original bolts at the very end. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Hunger and The Thirst variation
[Hide Photo] The Hunger and The Thirst variation
My rack. Some may want more, some may use less. Either way, bring a handful of draws to help reduce rope drag.
[Hide Photo] My rack. Some may want more, some may use less. Either way, bring a handful of draws to help reduce rope drag.
route
[Hide Photo] route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Historical note: while placing the top bolts I managed to drop Jay Green's Bosch drill ---- while he was watching! Luckily it missed the rocks and landed in the wet earth unharmed. Surprisingly he was reluctant to loan me the drill again. Jun 7, 2021
Andy Traylor
Portland, OR
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] This route is pretty sweet! After sitting neglected for the better part of 30 years, a couple folks got inspired to clean it off and put some chalk back on the holds. The movement is quite fun and the gear is bomber.

Regarding the grade: I'm super hesitant to upgrade anything but in an effort to keep the crag somewhat consistent, I think low-end 5.12 is fair. At more stout crags I think 11d could stick. The Hunger is harder than The Thirst and Dracula IMO. Jul 12, 2022
Amory
Portland, OR
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Get on it! Super fun movement, great gear. Second that it’s a bit harder than The Thirst variation or Dracula. Jul 14, 2022
[Hide Comment] Well done guys, that's the second and third ascent. You mean Broughton doesn't have stiff grades? :-) Well I did my best LOL. Jul 18, 2022