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Siren's Song

WI5-, TR, Ice, 260 ft (79 m), 3 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 4 from 4 votes
FA: Matthew Peck, Roger Fage. Feb 10, '10
International > N America > Canada > Nova Scotia > Amethyst Cove

Description

A Maritime Classic!  

A two-plus pitch WI 5 directly on the coast of the Bay of Fundy, this climb eluded discovery by the climbing community for many years.  The first pitch is a solid 30m to a bomber ledge, and is heavily chandaliered with sections of mild overhang that don't appear as such from the ground.  the left and more moderate side is often quite wet as well, so the right side is often preferable.  

The second pitch often has wilder ice, creating odd flutings, mushrooms and umbrellas of ice that can be interesting to defeat near the top.  Position your belayer with your exit in mind.  

The final short pitch to the top is typically casual, be beware of delaminated ice and high winds.  

Location

45.3209644, -643982382

Protection

Standard Ice Rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Matt MacPhee on pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Matt MacPhee on pitch 1.
Michel Martin on the second ascent of Siren Song. Pitch 3.
[Hide Photo] Michel Martin on the second ascent of Siren Song. Pitch 3.
Roger Fage leads p2 on the FA, 2010.
[Hide Photo] Roger Fage leads p2 on the FA, 2010.
Matthew Peck setting the belay of p1 during the FA. 2010
[Hide Photo] Matthew Peck setting the belay of p1 during the FA. 2010
Matthew Peck leading the first pitch during the FA, 2010
[Hide Photo] Matthew Peck leading the first pitch during the FA, 2010
Matthew Peck approaching Sirens Song during the FA, 2010
[Hide Photo] Matthew Peck approaching Sirens Song during the FA, 2010