Type: Trad, 1310 ft (397 m), 11 pitches
FA: Rune Harjo Jensen, Philip Curry
Page Views: 207 total · 16/month
Shared By: Philip Curry on Nov 21, 2020
Admins: Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan

You & This Route


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Description

A direct route straight up the middle of Presten linking together some excellent pitches from 4 classic routes. Scenic & well protected, it´s a particularly great outing for busy days on the Priest.

1) 5.8, 45m. Up the crack to the bolts. (As for P1 Vestpillaren Direct).
2) 5.9, 40m. Up the crack to the next DBB. (As for P2 Vestpillaren Direct).
3) 5.10c, 45m. Take the slanting left corner up to a small ledge (As for Variasjon til en variasjon).
4) 5.4, 20m. The rarely climbed second pitch of Variasjon til en variasjon trends gently left via easy slabs up to Storhylla. Build the belay at the black section of rock to your left.
5) 5.6, 25m. Climb the black section of rock, trending slightly left initially then straight up. Build your belay at the base of a short right facing groove.
6) 5.9, 35m. Follow the groove right the continue up the left facing corner system. Belay at a small ledge (As for P6 of Klokkeren).
7) 5.9, 40m. Step left & continue up the LF corner. Passing a short chossy section gains the next left facing corner system. Continue up this to a tiny ledge below the thin finger crack (As for P7 of Klokkeren).
8) 5.11a, 20m. Up the corner and a narrowing finger crack before some exciting moves right to the gain the next crack system. Build your belay after passing the fixed piton under the roof.
9) 5.9, 60m. Head out left under the roof, pulling through an overhang. Continue following easier flakes & cracks to a ledge below & slightly right of the slanting groove pitch.
10) 5.11b, 35m. Sustained finger jamming and stemming up the RF slanting groove. One of the best pitches on Presten (As for P10 Vestpillaren Original).
11) 5.11a, 35m. Head for & over the bulge (tricky) then follow easy low angled climbing left to the summit (As for P11 Vestpillaren Original).

Protection

Extra small wires are nice for pitches 8 & 10.

Photos

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