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Moab's Super Crack

5.10, Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.1 from 8 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southeast Utah > State Highway 313 > Random - Unsorted
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

The money pitch is just what it sounds like—hope you like assembly line golds because this baby goes and goes.

Pitch 1—Definitely robs the route of a star. Ramble up some loose ledges to the first right-facing corner, a rather awkward but short grunt up to the ledge below the main splitter. A bad gatekeeper pitch that is worth doing to get to the goods. (50 ft)

Pitch 2—Surmount the initial off-width problem off the deck to gain the main event, the perfect hands crack that stretches uninterrupted and steeply to the anchor. Yeah buddy!!!!!!(70 ft)

So if you want 'Supercrack' but can't swing the time to get down to the Creek, get on this Superfun substitute! (see what I did there?)

Location

Turn at Dinosaur Junction (the 313 exit towards Canyonlands off 191). Look up and right to where the big roadside walls (to the NW) looming overhead form an outside corner. 'Moab Super Crack' is on the right side (east facing wall) of the outside corner.

Once on 313, reset your odometer after crossing the railroad track. At 0.3 miles, turn right towards a kiosk. Drive around past it and north a little until you can't drive any further. Park and hike up towards the east facing cliff band (the route is easy to identify), piecing talus and escarpment breaches together until you arrive!

Protection

.75—3. Plenty O' #2s. Rap the route with two 60's

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Easy to spot
[Hide Photo] Easy to spot
There she blows
[Hide Photo] There she blows
J-sexy blazing the trail
[Hide Photo] J-sexy blazing the trail
The route as a whole: awkward right facing corner bottom left/cream on top
[Hide Photo] The route as a whole: awkward right facing corner bottom left/cream on top
The off width gatekeeper section stands guard for the yummy gold section. Gold flavor....(Homer Simpson drool)
[Hide Photo] The off width gatekeeper section stands guard for the yummy gold section. Gold flavor....(Homer Simpson drool)
You know you want it
[Hide Photo] You know you want it

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

johnny utah
Salt Lake City
5.10-
[Hide Comment] You can rap this route with a single 50m rope. Mid anchors were added. sort of a shame the climb ends where it does, anyone know if there are anchors higher than the anchor on the face at 3/4 crack height? Nov 8, 2022