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Fly On The Wall

5.10c, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 5 votes
FA: Evan Wisheropp and Kyle Fisher
California > Northwest Calif… > Promontory > Exploding Energy Boulder

Description

Start as for Lord Of The Flies, but after the second clip, continue heading off left for a rising traverse that lands you at a belay on the top of the boulder. Belay your follower up, then rappel off of either Ebb Tide or Prom Date. 

This route traverses far over the ocean, which is spectacular, but also makes it impossible to do a standard toprope setup, hence why we generally top out the boulder instead of belaying at the lip. After belaying on the summit, it's really nice to walk around up there and enjoy the unique position. It is also a fantastic way to set up a TR on Labor of Loathe, Reality Check, Prom Date, and Aquarius.

Location

West face of the boulder.

Protection

7 bolts 10 bolts! I added several bolts to make it much safer, and more comfortable. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The unclipped draw heads up into Lord Of The Flies. Instead just keep traversing left to the jug pockets.
[Hide Photo] The unclipped draw heads up into Lord Of The Flies. Instead just keep traversing left to the jug pockets.
Placing RBs on the FA
[Hide Photo] Placing RBs on the FA
Third clip of Fly On The Wall. First two bolts are shared with Lord Of The Flies
[Hide Photo] Third clip of Fly On The Wall. First two bolts are shared with Lord Of The Flies

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Evan Wisheropp
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] The first ascent was done on RBs. I got it bolted finally, many thanks to the generous donations that made it possible. Nov 16, 2020
Evan Wisheropp
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] This fun route was hardly ever getting repeated because it was kinda runnout and people got spooked, so I added a few bolts. It's much more comfortable now :) Aug 12, 2025