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Fistful of Dollars

5.11, Trad, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Scott Carson
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Eastwood Crag
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

A gorgeous route unfortunately marred by a cam-eating roof, suspect rock, and interesting anchors. Fistful of Dollars splits the shield at the prow of the mesa and is the most obvious line from the road. Start in fingers to off fingers with death blocks for your right foot (seriously, don't touch them). Pull a roof on wide hands (mid-to-big #3s) and somehow don't let your cams get pulled back into the roof by the rope. Continue up two body lengths of fists before 5s and 6s for a third of the route to the anchors (four bolts).

Location

At the top of the approach on the always sunny prow

Protection

.5-6, start .5-1, end 3-6, mostly 4-5

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Short shorts, meet OW.
[Hide Photo] Short shorts, meet OW.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

blue ribbon
Indian Creek, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Mega classic! Recommend doubles 3-5 (old 4.5 camalots might be better than 5s) plus whatever you need for the bottom. Nov 10, 2021
[Hide Comment] The 15' right below the roof seemed extremely hollow and suspect to me. Wouldn't recommend this route because of that. Oct 16, 2023