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> Lake Tahoe
> I-80 Corridor
> Auburn & Grass…
> Auburn SRA
> Bar
> Bar Rock
Glass Lipper
V6 YDS 7A Font
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Bar Rock
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Bar Fight S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bar Fly S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bar Traverse, The V3 6A |
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Crawl, The V4 6B |
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Factotum S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Glass Lipper V6 7A |
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Half-Glass Lipper V5 6C |
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Pit, The V7 7A+ PG13 |
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Snake Pit V4 6B |
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| Type: | Boulder, 20 ft (6 m) |
| FA: | Will Mahan, Nov 10 2020 |
| Page Views: | 557 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Will Mahan on Nov 11, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid
Details
Most of Auburn SRA is open from 7 am to sunset. Leave early enough to be off the trails before dusk. Most parking requires self registration fees in cash envelopes (or annual state park passes), and is enthusiastically enforced. Check the Auburn State Recreation Area website at parks.ca.gov/?page_id=502 for current information. Note that the park's policy is that technical roped climbing is only permitted in the Cave Valley/Quarry area - outside the fenced private quarry at the back. Unroped climbing - aka bouldering or DWS - is allowed everywhere with a safe landing.
Description
The full extension to the half glass lipper. We built a landing over the death pit at the end of the climb with logs. If the logs are gone, consider rebuilding a landing before attempting.
SDS low with a right hand crimp around corner and left hand on a crimp. Bump left hand to a larger hold, and begin working your way left and up the lip. Traverse the entire lip and top out at the very end/top. V6 if you stay true to the lip and avoid any tempting holds up above the lip.
Solid rock with few fractures! Shouldn't have much breakage occur on this one.
WATER - I cleaned the line, but noticed that it does stay wet for several days longer than the other rocks after rain due to the moss on the cliff right above the boulder. Just a heads up!
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