Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches
GPS: 38.16509, 128.4635
FA: Myunghee Lee, Sukmun Choi, 2019
Page Views: 759 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chan Kim on Nov 8, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Chan Kim

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Description Suggest change

High quality route developed in 2019 by Northface rep Myunghee Lee and her husband Sukmun Choi. This route is named in memory of alpinist Kim Chang Ho who tragically passed away in Nepal with several other Korean climbers and guides on 11 October 2018, when a snowstorm destroyed the 3500m-altitude base camp beneath Mount Gurja in the Dhaulagiri.

Minimal bolting has been done on this route, which will test your protection placing skills. Leader should be a fairly solid 5.10- crack climber. Great movement and beautiful route all around!

Pitch 1 (5.9, 50m, 3 bolts) Hug the left side of the lower base up the route. Use a combination of bomber finger jams, laybacking, and handjams to get to an obvious anchor point. This one is long and traversing so extend your draws! 

Pitch 2 (5.10c, 30m, 2 bolts $$$$) A 4 star pitch anywhere. Traverse your way to the left using a combination of finger jamming and laybacking. Follow the natural contour of the line to the right, extending your draws as you go. The crux is a slippery, layback/half jam move towards the end. The vista point on a popular hiking trail is very close to this pitch, so you will probably have many Koreans gawking at you. Smile and pose for a picture, while at the same time trying not to take a 10m+ whip. 

Pitch 3 (5.8, 35m, 1 bolt) Go up route, Staying left of the big overhanging bulge. 

Pitch 4 (5.10a/b, 30m, 1 bolt) Go up a great hand crack up to an obvious crackline. Save a #2 for a move at the end of the pitch. 

After this, you can traverse a bit to your left and meet up with the route '90' if you want to top out. Rapping down with a single 60m rope is a bit more difficult but the anchors are definitely there. You will have to do an easy down climb at the base of the climb after the last rappel. Tie knots at the end for safety.

Location Suggest change

Located on the lower base of Janggun-bong. See pictures for reference. 

Protection Suggest change

A double rack from .3-2, singles in .2, 3, and 4. 14-16 draws. A 60m rope is ample but a tagline or a double rope system would be nice for rapping off the route.

Photos

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