Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 275 total · 21/month
Shared By: Shane Rosanbalm on Nov 8, 2020
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Location

To the right (downhill) from Sentinel Buttress and Big Jugs; to the left (uphill) from Great Escape and Super Direct. 

Description

This route came to my attention by way of the old Kelly guide. There is an unnamed dashed line with a "5.5" annotation running between Sentinel Buttress and Great Escape; the route passes through a feature referred to as the Little Crow's Nest. A similar unnamed route is shown in the Select guide with the note "several variations of historical interest". This description is my interpretation of these bread crumbs.

Begin on black rock in a short dihedral and then traverse right to gain a large ledge. 

From this ledge, instead of going straight up the wide crack (you won't be carrying enough #6s and Big Bros to protect it), instead go up and right to gain another ledge. 

From this second ledge you'll want to traverse even further to the right, aiming for a steep crack. Good gear protects committing (for the grade) moves. From this point you will angle slowly up and left until you gain the tree ledge Kelly labels as the Little Crow's Nest. If you didn't bring an 8' runner with which to sling the tree, you might want to stop and belay from here.

From the Little Crow's Nest, you've got options. The Select guide shows 3 arrows pointing up in various directions. I continue by moving up and to the right across mildly slabby terrain. The grade backs off a bit through this section, but so do the gear options. Eventually you will reach a horizontal feature that accepts gear from above. Maybe place two pieces just to be sure. 

Next comes the crux of the route; a steep and slightly awkward corner. Thankfully, gear options start to become more plentiful at this point. 

The rest of the route is straightforward climbing on incut holds with ample protection. Once you reach the height of the main Crow's Nest (you'll be 20' to the right), build an anchor in the abundant horizontals. 

An optional third pitch will take you all the way to the top. 

Protection

Standard Moore's rack.

Photos

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