Type: Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Christophe Bignon & Jean-Louis Fenoui on 06 August 1993. Re-equipped 2013 S. Duval & Jean-Louis Fenoui
Page Views: 101 total · 9/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Nov 7, 2020
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514, David Riley

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Description

The purported steep slab classic on St. Peter's organ pipes.

From 4 to 6 pitches.

Start at a low point well to the left of the crest of the big spur (where Bon Pied lives).

Climb steep slabs to belay anchor.  

Up slightly right to a tafone feature which is ascended on its left side.  Follow shallow corner cracks up to anchor.  

Short slab with hard move leads to climb up shallow corner then slab to belay at tree.

From tree ledge, climb steep slab then trend right and belay at a break.

Shallow corners and and slab.  Continue up slot to big tree near summit.

Descent:  can be done in two long 60 meter rappels down the route.  Or, break up into small rappels (some guidebooks suggest 2 X 50m ropes).

"Belle voie devenue classic."

The views and position are great and the rock solid granite.  Slab-tastic climbing.

Location

Just left of the middle of the formation.  Left of Bon pied - bon œil approximately in the middle of the slab oriented slightly to the northwest.

Protection

Bolted (and rebolted) sports route. A dozen or so quickdraws and a few slings should suffice (although a smattering of small to medium cams might be useful along the margins).

Photos

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