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Sara's Church Group

5.10a, Sport, TR, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 4 votes
FA: unknown
California > San Francisco B… > E Bay Area > W Ridge Rocks

Description

Avoid the easier holds of the route next to this one, by staying to the left of the red line shown in one picture. With the dirt and unclear features on this side, this means taking some time to look for good feet. Mantling without cheating too far left or right is perhaps a first crux. Once at the ledge do not cheat by stepping back to gain extra height. You must start close to the wall - this feels like a second crux. After getting up a little bit from the ledge, the finish is then basically the same as the adjacent route.

I'd strongly suggest this one just be TR'd since the top is so accessible here, but I suppose it's also straightforward to lead the easier route then continue to follow with this one. If actually leading this one, it might be PG13 considering you'll be much further from the first hanger than with the easy neighbor route. Definitely clip into the second hanger before actually resuming the ascent there.

Protection

Two hangers on face, multiple hangers on top for easy TR anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Clipped into second bolt, then resuming the climb. Undercling with the LH, crimp on the RH, then pivot up
[Hide Photo] Clipped into second bolt, then resuming the climb. Undercling with the LH, crimp on the RH, then pivot up
10a avoids nicer features to the right of the line
[Hide Photo] 10a avoids nicer features to the right of the line