East Buttress
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
| Type: | Trad, 7 pitches |
| GPS: | 32.3459, -106.5571 |
| FA: | Dave Head, John Hymer- July 15, 2007 |
| Page Views: | 1,183 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Kiessel on Oct 27, 2020 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
P1: Climb up and right on suspect rock to a bolt. Clip a second bolt not much higher and then place some gear before clipping the third bolt. The climbing isn't hard but its fairly steep and you are going slow testing holds which makes it feel harder than it probably is. End at a 2 bolt anchor. 5.9, 95' (Matt fell twice following this pitch when holds pulled off)
P2: Step left and then climb up the lichen covered rock clipping bolts and placing gear. Climb over the bulge (crux) and past a bolted anchor to a gear anchor up and right. We belayed at the base of the left leaning ramp. 5.11b, 130'
P3: Climb up and left on the ramp to its top. Clip the bolt that protects the move over the bulge. Once over the bulge climb right under some scary looking blocks to another bolt. Cut back left over the scary blocks and end at a two bolt anchor at a bird poop covered ledge. 5.10, 95'
P4: Follow the obvious string of bolts to the right over a little bulge then back left into a dihedral. Continue up through the lichen clipping 9 bolts. End at a hidden 2 bolt anchor up and left. 5.12-, 110' (We missed the anchor out left and did a 230' pitch ending at the top of Pitch 5 on the North Face/East Ridge route)
P5: Continue up following the path of least resistance to a two bolt anchor. The bolts are to the left of the dihedral above a slab. 4th class, 170'
P6: Step right and climb the right facing dihedral until you hit the two bolts out right that protect the face traverse to the right under the huge roof. Belay at two oddly spaced out bolts on a slab. 5.9, 100'
P7: Climb easy terrain up and right to a two bolt anchor that is the top of Pitch 6 on the North Face route. 5.4, 70'
From here follow the North Face/East Ridge route for 5 more pitches to the summit.
On the descent we rappelled the North Face/East Ridge route instead of the East Buttress. Obviously keep an eye out for anchors as you know by this point spotting bolts with all the lichen can be really hard.
Click Here for a link to a topo of the route made by John Hymer
Location
The East Buttress starts up on a little ledge about 30-40' left of the North Face/East Ridge route.



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