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Southeast Ridge

5.9, Trad, Alpine, 750 ft (227 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Robin Barley, Peter Shackleton 1981
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley > Anderson River… > Ibex Peak

Description

Climb the obvious ridge from the col to the summit. There are a few bushy ledges but most of the climbing is enjoyably clean up corners and slabs.

Start on the left up slabs (5.6), climb to roofs (5.9), pass first roof on the left then move right, passing another roof, to reach the ridge crest (5.7). Climb over bulges (5.7), finish up a 5.8 slab.

The most common descent is to rappel the route. There are typically slung trees for anchors but you'll want to bring your own webbing and rap rings because some of the anchors may be snafflehound-chewed or just plain old and not trustworthy.

Location

Begin just left of the ridge crest, at the Ibex/Steinbok col.

Protection

Gear to 3"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking head on at Ibex SE ridge from partway up Steinbok
[Hide Photo] Looking head on at Ibex SE ridge from partway up Steinbok
Looking up the southeast face from the col. SE Ridge route climbs the slab either left or right of the patch of greenery then moves right to the ridge crest
[Hide Photo] Looking up the southeast face from the col. SE Ridge route climbs the slab either left or right of the patch of greenery then moves right to the ridge crest