PRINT: Rock Climb The Other Side of Insanity, Adirondacks

The Other Side of Insanity

5.10a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3.3 from 19 votes
FA: FA Ross Manny, Geanette Orton, Andy Johnstone, October 15, 2020
New York > Adirondacks > B: Chapel Pond… > Serac Wall

Description

This is far better than its neighbor. The climbing is awesome; the only detraction is the road noise. It is a beautiful line: sustained, pumpy, and technical. It is well bolted, and would be a safe onsight for a new 5.10 leader.

Either stick clip or boulder your way to the small ledge and first bolt. Make your way up and right to the arete. Work your way up the arete as it steepens through a bulge (crux). Topout on a ledge and find the fixed anchors to your right.

FA (TR) Geanette Orton, Ross Manny, Andy Johnstone, Jordan Hand, Kristen Castro

Location

The obvious, tall vertical fin of rock. Begin on the left side below a small ledge 10' up.

Protection

6 draws. Fixed anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Me on the FA. It's a long approach from the road! Photo: Andy Johnstone

The route climbs the left side of the arete.

Me on the FA of The Other Side of Insanity. Photo: Andy Johnstone

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Geanette Manny
Vermontville, NY

5.10a

This thing is so damn fun. It's steep, but all the holds are there. Fun movement throughout, especially at the top! I highly recommend this route. Oct 26, 2020

Cal Seeley
New Hampshire

Pretty fun route with great movement. Will get better with more traffic, some crimps are a little crumbly. Jun 13, 2021

Nicholas Orton
Saranac lake

generously bolted. Good fun, I would have given it 4 stars if not for the sound of the cars wizing by, as this cliff is right next to the road. Jul 12, 2021

Nol H
Vermont

I really enjoyed the climbing on this. It's really a unique feature with fun moves, but the moderate grade, safe bolting, and short approach make me wanna bump my rating. It's accessibility will mean it will be enjoyed by many climbers for decades to come. Four stars! Aug 1, 2021