All Locations > Massachusetts > Western MA > Mormon Hollow > Mormon Hollow - Left…

Smitty's Roof

Name: Smitty's Roof
Rating: 2.7

5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Mormon Hollow - Left Side

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arrhythmia S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a V4 6B
	Cardiac Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Cardiac Bypass Direct TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Chimney, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Excessive Force S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Hang Ten S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pinch the Polish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Power Dive S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Smitty's Roof S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Tidal Wave (route 2) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Triple Bypass S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Tunnel Vision S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Unknown Hand/Fist T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Zizag Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA:	Chris Smith, early '90s
Page Views:	1,076 total · 20/month
Shared By:	eric parham on Oct 11, 2020
Admins:	sara pax, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Per Al Rubin: this was originally climbed as a mixed route by Chris Smith in the '90s and subsequently chopped by You Know Who--actually it was one of the last routes to be chopped. It subsequently became over-grown and neglected until recently being rehabilitated as a sport route in spring of 2020.

Scamper up some low quality rock for two bolts. Get established under the roof, and make a long reach to a jug over the lip. Lock off, and clip a bolt before engaging in some strenuous and gymnastic moves on good holds. Once over the lip, breath and relax, while collecting yourself clip a bolt, and contemplate the crux sequence while trying to find the holds. The slab holds the real crux and feels exposed while being safely protected. After a short section of climbing that is harder that it feels like it should be, you can relax. Clip one more bolt before the anchor. Some chalk on this one really helps as the upper crux section tends to attract pine needles. This has superb rock quality on the upper section.