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Pagan Poetry

V11+, Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 10 votes
FA: Anthony Chertudi
Utah > Central Utah > Joe's Valley > Left Fork > Right Sign Area
Warning Access Issue: Don't climb on wet rock! DetailsDrop down

Description

The backside of Wills A Fire/Beyond Life houses a large, impressive 65° overhang. Currently, there are two exits that go out of it. The high start moving right being a new school classic known as Pagan Poetry, and the lower start moving left called the Sound of Silence.

Pagan Poetry: Start on a glossy RH sidepull and LH edge immediately above it, about halfway up the wall. Pull on and fire right to an incut crimp, holding a difficult swing and taking care not to dab. Move in left to undercling, then deadpoint right hand to jug/pocket. Move to lip and topout.

As PP starts in a slightly in-obvious position (compared to Pegasus or PP Low), and has only decent rock with a dab factor on the crux, I’ve given it 3 stars. It makes up for what it lacks in visuals on the wall, and is rightfully popular. 

Location

On the back of Beyond Life. Start halfway up the wall in the middle of the large roof, and crimp straight up to the lip. Perfect line of holds. Pagan Poetry Low (V13) is much better and starts on jugs a move lower and left. Pegasus (V15), completes the line from a sit. 

Protection

Good amount of pads. Climbs out of a hole.

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Brutal first move
[Hide Photo] Brutal first move

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Z D
Salt Lake City
[Hide Comment] The description states this is the only line, but there are actually a few lines in this roof. Going left off the Pagan low start is called Sound Of Silence, FA Matt Fultz, I think he called it 12 when he did it but it appears one of the crimps has mostly disintegrated. All the way right in the cave there is a very low line (that has been made lower by runoff and rocks filling in from what I can tell) that starts on a worm like tufa feature and continues up and right out of a hole, I was told V9 and FA Griffin Whiteside. Nov 12, 2021
Chris Deuto
  V11+
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the update! When this was published, it was the sole line. I hadn’t heard anything about Sound of Silence breaking, but it seemed hard to begin with. Nov 12, 2021
Sam D
CA
[Hide Comment] There's also a sit start to this called "Pegasus" that goes at V15. FA by Drew Ruana in Feb 2020.
The name is a play on words, "peg" like Pagan Poetry and "assis" which means sit in French. Sep 22, 2022