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Burly Squirrel

5.10d, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Andrew Parnas
New York > Adirondacks > A: Lake Champla… > Underwood Canyon

Description

A neat pitch with lots of variety.  

Start with hands in the horizontal crack below the left-facing corner.  Hand traverse left until you are out from under the corner, then move up over the bulge with a long reach to a jug from a side-pull.  Once above the bulge, traverse left until you get your hands in the excellent horizontal crack, and then continue left until you can move up through a series of horizontal, evenly spaced parallel cracks.  At the top of the ladder of horizontals, make a hard stand up move and grab the good lip below the roof.  Go straight up over the roof and continue on easier ground to a bolted anchor at the highest point of the wall.

Location

Go right from Ultra Instinct as the cliff turns slightly.  The base of the cliff slopes up into a gully that can take you to the top of the cliff.  Partway up this gully, there is a small left-facing and left-leaning corner/overlap about 6' off the ground.  Begin under the corner in the horizontal crack.   

Protection

Gear from micro-cams to 2". Bring extras in BD .1, .2, and .3 to adequately protect the crux move.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Burly Squirrel showing the upper "ladder" of horizontal cracks... unfortunately wet in this image due to two days of rain.
[Hide Photo] Burly Squirrel showing the upper "ladder" of horizontal cracks... unfortunately wet in this image due to two days of rain.
The start of Burly Squirrel.  Reach up into the horizontal crack below the left-leaning corner and hand traverse left.
[Hide Photo] The start of Burly Squirrel. Reach up into the horizontal crack below the left-leaning corner and hand traverse left.