Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Andrew Parnas
Page Views: 229 total · 20/month
Shared By: aparnas on Oct 4, 2020
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description

A neat pitch with lots of variety.  

Start with hands in the horizontal crack below the left-facing corner.  Hand traverse left until you are out from under the corner, then move up over the bulge with a long reach to a jug from a side-pull.  Once above the bulge, traverse left until you get your hands in the excellent horizontal crack, and then continue left until you can move up through a series of horizontal, evenly spaced parallel cracks.  At the top of the ladder of horizontals, make a hard stand up move and grab the good lip below the roof.  Go straight up over the roof and continue on easier ground to a bolted anchor at the highest point of the wall.

Location

Go right from Ultra Instinct as the cliff turns slightly.  The base of the cliff slopes up into a gully that can take you to the top of the cliff.  Partway up this gully, there is a small left-facing and left-leaning corner/overlap about 6' off the ground.  Begin under the corner in the horizontal crack.   

Protection

Gear from micro-cams to 2". Bring extras in BD .1, .2, and .3 to adequately protect the crux move.

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