Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: First recorded by Justin Pucci, Alesha Courtley - September 2020
Page Views: 473 total · 40/month
Shared By: Justin Pucci on Oct 3, 2020
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

Find the crux at the bottom in the first few moves necessary to pull over the bulge on fists and into a better position above. Some nice knees and fists bring you up to a broad ledge about half way up. From here, knees, chicken wings, and wiggles get you up to the top of the offwidth (squeeze chimney for smaller bodies) where you can stem out to the left to clip the anchors on Nightbird.

You can also climb this as a stemmy face climb and plug gear into the crack as pro for an easier time or as a bail option if you’re new to the wide.

This crack has similar movement to the offwidth just next door - Swashbuckling 101 - but less sustained. The crux down low is what defines the grade. Above the bulge is cruiser and a good intro to wide climbing with lots of rests to take stock of you technique and make adjustments for the next bit of squirming. This one may be the best soft intro to offwidth that I’ve come across so far!

If you’re going to TR this, then I suggest a #7 or #8 at the top of the crack as a redirect from the anchors...or at least until we put in new anchors in a better location directly above the line.

Location

The obvious wide corner with the bulgy start between Nightbird and Wish I Were Skiing at 49* North.

Protection

Gear from 3-9”. Use BD #3-8 cams or equivalent.

Photos