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The Birds and the Knees
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in The South Side
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Arterial Bypass S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Birds and the Knees, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Breakfast Beer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Breakfast Crack S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chicken Fingers S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dance of the Shaman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Don Coyote S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't Fear the Whipper S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Feathers Reverse Traverse, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Feathers Traverse, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Fraggled Pickle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hardening of the Arteries S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Me Too S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Medicine Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mirror, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Nightbird S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Photo Opportunity S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Ring Pin Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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So Funny I Forgot to Laugh S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Swashbuckling 101 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Updrafts to Heaven S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Waiting for the Sun S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Windwalker S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wish I Were Skiing at 49 Degrees North S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | First recorded by Justin Pucci, Alesha Courtley - September 2020 |
| Page Views: | 1,114 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Justin Pucci on Oct 3, 2020 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Find the crux at the bottom in the first few moves necessary to pull over the bulge on fists and into a better position above. Some nice knees and fists bring you up to a broad ledge about half way up. From here, knees, chicken wings, and wiggles get you up to the top of the offwidth (squeeze chimney for smaller bodies) where you can stem out to the left to clip the anchors on Nightbird.
You can also climb this as a stemmy face climb and plug gear into the crack as pro for an easier time or as a bail option if you’re new to the wide.
This crack has similar movement to the offwidth just next door - Swashbuckling 101 - but less sustained. The crux down low is what defines the grade. Above the bulge is cruiser and a good intro to wide climbing with lots of rests to take stock of you technique and make adjustments for the next bit of squirming. This one may be the best soft intro to offwidth that I’ve come across so far!
If you’re going to TR this, then I suggest a #7 or #8 at the top of the crack as a redirect from the anchors...or at least until we put in new anchors in a better location directly above the line.
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